Best Portions of the South West Coast Path to Explore

The eagerly anticipated film adaptation of The Salt Path, Raynor Winn’s inspiring memoir detailing her and her terminally ill husband Moth’s journey along the South West Coast Path, is set to premiere on May 30. The couple traversed the entire 630 miles from Somerset to Dorset, facing 115,000 feet of elevation, akin to scaling Mount Everest four times, while wild camping and surviving mainly on tinned tuna and noodles. If their story moves you but you’re not quite ready for the full adventure, this guide highlights the best sections to walk. After exploring these trails for over 20 years, here are four of my personal favorites.

If you’re fortunate, you might experience what the Winns did when a fellow hiker remarked, “You’ve held the hand of nature. It won’t ever leave you now; you’re salted.”

Lynton, Lynmouth and the Valley of Rocks, North Devon

Northern Devon’s charm lies in its pristine coastline, free from the bustling infrastructure that keeps the crowds away. The true gems here are the enchanting temperate rainforests surrounding Lynton and Lynmouth, where ancient oaks are draped in moss and ferns, creating a setting reminiscent of a fantasy film. Start your journey from Lynton, descending through scenic paths by the Lyn River, which offers a refreshing spray as it cascades over rocks. Soon, you’ll find yourself at the picturesque harbor of Lynmouth.

If you’re looking to conserve energy, take a ride on the Lynton & Lynmouth Cliff Railway, the world’s highest completely water-powered funicular, which has been operating since 1890. The unique system utilizes water to balance the carriages, maintaining the area’s old-world charm. However, resist the temptation for a cup of tea here—save your appetite for a sweet treat along your trek.

Consider adding a three-mile loop through the mesmerizing Valley of Rocks. The area’s dramatic slate and sandstone formations, along with the delightful sight of wild goats, make for a captivating experience. These goats, introduced in the Seventies, grace the steep cliffs with their agility. Along your route, you’ll encounter panoramic views over the Bristol Channel as well as the Lee Abbey Tea Cottage—indulge in scones here for a well-earned treat (note: the proper order is clotted cream first, then jam in Devon).

Set aside time for Braunton Burrows, just a 45-minute drive from Lynton, which boasts four miles of enchanting dunes, providing a beautiful contrast to the dramatic cliffs. This region also features fantastic beaches and excellent surfing spots at Woolacombe, Croyde, and Saunton Sands, alongside the tranquil Hartland peninsula.

For accommodation, consider the Bath Hotel, offering views over Lynmouth’s harbor and featuring a charming Victorian dining room with unique bedrooms.

St Ives to Gurnard’s Head, Cornwall

The picturesque fishing cottages and cobbled streets of St Ives are usually bustling with tourists visiting the Tate St Ives and the Barbara Hepworth Museum. However, the stretch of the coast path here often remains tranquil. I recommend starting your walk by taking the A16 bus to St Ives from Gurnard’s Head where you can lace up your hiking boots while enjoying a delicious homemade ice cream for a quick energy boost.

This six-mile hike back to Zennor presents a stunning yet moderately challenging route. On your way, you’ll be surrounded by the glorious light that has inspired countless artists, including Hepworth. The fragrant thyme-covered headlands and wild gorse paint a perfect picture, as the rugged granite cliffs meet rocky coves, perfect for spotting seals.

A mermaid sighting is almost a guarantee! St Senara’s Church in Zennor, dating back to the 12th century, features a mermaid carved into one of its bench ends. Continue towards Gurnard’s Head, a narrow promontory that might just look like a fish’s head after a few pints of Cornish Thundercloud Hazy IPA. Here, you can explore the remnants of an Iron Age fort, adding historical intrigue to your journey.

For lodging, the Gurnard’s Head pub offers rooms and attracts both walkers and food enthusiasts for its remarkable views and quality dining options.

Branscombe to Beer, South Devon

Branscombe, often considered the quintessential village, offers a scenic five-mile hike along the Jurassic Coast. As you navigate through the village, you’ll pass a 16th-century working forge and stumble upon a charming shingle beach adorned with nostalgic beach huts, including a massive anchor commemorating the MSC Napoli grounding.

To the west, the coastline reveals the rusty remnants of ancient landscapes dating back 230 million years, while the eastern route showcases marine deposits from 85 million years ago. This area is renowned for its dramatic cliffs shaped by storms and landslides, leading toward the quaint village of Beer, known for its charming aesthetics.

After a steep ascent up East Cliff, the path eventually smooths out, leading to Hooken Undercliff—a stunning geological formation that emerged over two centuries ago, revealing a world of ferns and flowers nestled among chalk formations. It’s the kind of enchanting spot that tempts you to linger a while before continuing on to Beer.

It would be remiss not to pause for a drink at the Barrel of Beer pub, which invites visitors to enjoy a pint in Beer. You’ll find a welcoming atmosphere and a tempting selection of beverages. The sheltered beach offers a perfect spot to relax and enjoy the surroundings, alongside opportunities to purchase fresh catches from local fishermen returning with their daily haul.

Return to Branscombe via the easier grassy path that meanders atop the cliffs.

Consider staying at the historic Masons Arms in Branscombe, a charming establishment featuring well-equipped accommodations and excellent dining.

Lyme Regis to Golden Cap, Dorset

Lyme Regis is a stunning coastal town with colorful houses cascading towards the Cobb, a historic harbor wall. Celebrating the 175th anniversary of Jane Austen’s birth this year, the National Trust offers guided walks along the Cobb, featuring readings from Persuasion, which references Lyme. As the fossil capital of the UK, numerous trails along the shore provide opportunities to hunt for ancient ammonite fossils.

The towering Golden Cap, offering breathtaking views from its summit, stands as a beacon, enticing hikers to traverse the seven miles to its base. The journey showcases a variety of landscapes, including shingle beaches, woodlands, and traditional farmland. The summit, at 627 feet, offers stunning vistas of the surrounding coast and is a reward for your efforts. The X53 bus conveniently returns hikers to Lyme after completing the trek.

For a comfortable stay, check out Lyme Townhouse, a Georgian home with cozy rooms just a short stroll from the beach, perfect for unwinding after a day’s hike.

Explore more detailed guides on Cornwall and Dorset to plan your walking adventures.