Experience Austria’s Chicest Ski Retreat at Eriro Alpine Hide

As I ascended in a gondola above the lesser-known Austrian ski destination of Ehrwalder Alm, I felt a mix of excitement and curiosity. Instead of traditional ski attire, I found myself in jeans, having just arrived from Munich, with my weekend bags beside me.

Upon reaching the lift station at 1,505 meters, my partner and I hopped into a tracked ATV, reminiscent of an action film. Our driver swiftly transported us across the snowy landscape, marking a thrilling introduction to the Eriro Alpine Hide hotel.

This opulent, adults-only lodge features nine uniquely designed suites and stands as one of the most stylish additions to the Alps in the last year. Established last summer, it sits between two blue ski routes at an elevation of 1,550 meters, accessible only via the ski lift during winter. Our journey commenced traditionally with a train ride from Munich airport to Garmisch, followed by an Eriro driver who escorted us to the hotel.

We were immediately captivated by the charming wooden chalet where we were welcomed by Henning Schaub, the lodge’s gracious manager. He shared that the name “Eriro” is rooted in Old High German, meaning “at the forest’s entrance.”

He explained that the hotel’s philosophy centers around deep connections to the Alpine traditions of the region, evident in the decor, with 90% of the lodge built from locally sourced timber.

As avid skiers and hikers, we were thrilled to be near Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak at 2,962 meters. However, Ehrwalder Alm is often overlooked by British skiers. Unlike its famous counterparts, St Anton and Ischgl, which boast more extensive slopes and lifts, Ehrwalder Alm features only 27.5 kilometers of runs and six lifts. This might suffice for a weekend trip, but many guests visit for more than just skiing—the hotel emphasizes wellness, relaxation, and unique activities such as pottery and yodeling.

Room rates begin at a remarkable £1,300 per night, but this package encompasses all amenities, including meals, drinks, spa services, ski rentals, and lift passes.

Upon entering our room, we were greeted with a gift of lambswool socks, which guests are encouraged to wear throughout the lodge, fostering a cozy atmosphere.

The warm vibe, created from abundant natural materials, enveloped us. The rooms, adorned in natural wood, resembled luxurious log cabins, featuring an exceptionally comfortable mattress resting on hefty wood sleepers. A striking canoe-shaped bathtub, carved from a single tree, added to the charm.

In the expansive entrance area, we were welcomed by a cozy fire pit and plush sofas. Adjacent to it were a bar and dining space, all enveloped in floor-to-ceiling windows that provided scenic views of the forest while flooding the area with natural light. The ambiance is notably serene, with minimal artificial lighting and no televisions. Although Wi-Fi is complimentary, its use is discouraged.

Our first outdoor adventure was a guided snowshoe trek with local nature guide Simon Scheiber, a former shepherd. Our gentle pace amid the pine trees unveiled subtle signs of wildlife, like squirrel tracks and puzzling prints, which Simon identified as rabbit marks, explaining the unique patterns left in the snow.

Due to its prime location, Eriro caters to skiers inclined to explore the slopes right outside the boot room, allowing easy access to the expansive pistes, including a snow park and a few restaurants at the lift station.

Seeking a more thrilling excursion, we coordinated with mountain guide Michael Zwölfer for a day of ski touring. By employing skins, we climbed to untouched off-piste areas, maneuvering through the wild backcountry around the whimsically named Wankspitze. With only one other couple spotted, we carved out our own tracks in the powdery snow among jagged peaks.

Post-adventure, we retreated to the spa, a serene space adorned with wood and stone. The facilities included small hot pools and saunas, with scenic vistas of the Tajakopf mountains. Each guest enjoys a daily massage or other treatment, and Tatiana Toumel, the spa manager, expertly alleviated my sore muscles during my session.

Evenings were spent indulging in Austrian wine selections with host Tim Langer, where we savored various wines, including a refreshing Rosen riesling from Wagram, while relaxing on the sofas around the fire, engaged in delightful conversations with fellow guests.

Head chef Alexander Thoss has curated a team passionate about foraging, amassing an impressive selection of over 4,500 jars of preserves. Unique ingredients like pickled pine cones and fermented fennel boasted visual appeal for the meals to come. The dinner experience was an eight-course tasting menu, with a highlight being locally sourced mountain chamois, cooked to perfection on a copper barbecue. Breakfasts featured a personal buffet with local cheeses, freshly cured hams, preserves, and bread directly from the oven.

A variety of activities are available, ranging from wood carving to yodeling and even astronomy. The hotel houses a craft studio, where I participated in pottery class with local ceramicist Steffi Pahle. With snow falling outside, the serene environment made for a deeply meditative experience as I crafted mugs and bowls, which will be mailed to me post-firing.

This kind of immersive experience sets Eriro apart. While there are more extravagant ski hotels at similar price points, the sanctuary-like atmosphere combined with a dedication to genuine Austrian Alpine adventures is unparalleled. This ski retreat offered much-needed respite amidst our adrenaline-fueled pursuits.

Our stay was meticulously attended to right until our departure. During the return journey to the airport—again via ATV, gondola, car, and train—we enjoyed pine cone-infused cupcakes from the kitchen, a final, delightful taste of our forest escape.